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Despite its seriously restrictive title, “Corsets and Codpieces” is an extremely expansive, often jolly book. Karen Bowman is the writer’s equivalent of a magpie, her beady eye alert for the oddest of details and the weirdest of facts in her brisk romp through a millennium of fashion’s victims. I won’t soon forget her description of the mortified lady who attended a Dickens reading in an inflatable rubber bustle and found that it farted when sat upon — or of the hungry horse who dined off the stuffing in a fashionable racegoer’s bran-enhanced behind. “Essex Boys,” Bowman’s previous book, scampered through the histories of a colorful group of that British county’s celebrities. Here her focus is less on individuals and more on the follies they expensively embraced. For at least a thousand years, the unholy alliance of commerce and fashion has zealously exploited the thrill of religious transgression. The purpose of a medieval wimple was virtuous: Wearing an inverted ice cream cone on your head screened from view the ears into which, on one occasion, divine conception had been breathed. Buttons were just asking for trouble when the eyelet might expose a glimpse of sinful flesh beneath, while any evidence of a woman’s waistline, however snugly clad, was downright wicked.
For the original article go to https://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/02/books/review/corsets-and-codpieces-karen-bowman.html